September 15, 2004 Reflections on Montana—if you’re coming

We’ve spent nearly a month wandering through the western portion of Montana so I thought it might be time for some impressions we’ve drawn.  

I’ve always loved Montana for its wide open spaces and its relaxed atmosphere. That hasn’t changed. I like the way that the majority of the commoners are just that—pretty common. The nouveau riche who own the big mega ranches don’t really seem to impact everyday life here too much with one exception. Much of Montana is locked up behind gates, so choose your boondocking spots wisely.   

You can tell Montanans work hard and there is not the obvious displays of wealth that you find in other states via trophy homes and Hummers in the driveways. In fact, that’s one of the most endearing things about Montana—the prevalence of old trucks as the favorite mode of transportation. When you pass a small town bar or café and 9 out of 10 of the vehicles parked in front are old trucks—that’s gotta say something. It doesn’t necessarily say that these are just poor old cowboys. Actually, one of those old trucks is probably being driven by the rancher who owns 5,000 acres and 500 head of Angus just down the road apiece.  

The way their hard life must wear on these folks might affect their attitude towards outsiders as well. Once engaged in conversation, they are polite. We did notice however, that it’s usually the outsider who must initiate the conversation and there’s just something in the stance that communicates “I’ll talk to you and be polite, but you don’t really belong here.” It almost reminds me of what people (supposedly the Governor) used to quip about Oregon (in an attempt to keep it from growing too fast) “Welcome to Oregon. Now go home.”  

Montanans drive VERY fast. It’s best to just get out of their way because they’re going to come around you anyway—on blind curves, up hills or with intersecting roads—the double yellow no passing lines don’t seem to apply to these folks. Montana has the third highest traffic fatality rate in the nation. Given the scarcity of traffic, that must say something about the quality of the drivers. Be careful when you drive its highways. 

Montana preserves and revels in its history and its historic structures. This might be because they don’t have the money to tear them down and replace them with the newest, modern building, but the end result nevertheless, is that it’s a joy to tour the towns and easy to put yourself back in time when this was rip-roaring mining and ranching country and was the true old West. Where I’m from, California and Oregon, one might find a few structures preserved but what is engaging about touring Montana is that the majority of a town might be old, put to new uses. By old, I’m talking structures built in the late 1800’s. I know Easterners don’t find this old, but for us in the west, this is as old as it gets unless you’re digging in a Native American archeology site.  

Montana has very changeable weather. I’m from Central Oregon and it does the same thing, but you’d figure that late August, early September travel wouldn’t force you to endure 20 something degree nights and mid 50-60 degree day time temps. That has cramped our style a little since we enjoy being outdoors, but it’s not so fun when it’s pouring rain or you’re bundled up and miserable. As I write this near Dillon, the mountains surrounding us are now snow dusted and it’s not melting! Isn’t mid-September just A LITTLE too early for snow? 

So, all in all, I guess I would say that you can come to Montana and either enjoy her as she is, or not enjoy her at all. She doesn’t seem to really give a damn one way or the other.