February 24, 2004—The Territorial Prison views Art Deco Downtown.

Quite some time ago, college years I’m sure, I visited the Yuma Territorial Prison with a girlfriend, but wanted to go again with Marc and refresh my memory.  

The prison seems mighty small at this point in time; imprisoned itself between freeway overpass spans, the Gila and Colorado River convergence, and the added dimension of the railway bridge and one lane road to the Quechan Indian Reservation squeezed in. It occupies only seven acres, all practically treeless.

The current entrance fee is $4/pp which affords entrance to the small museum which you pass through on your way to view the yards and cells. The sallyport, which is the only original adobe building left, lends some credence to the experience of stepping back in time. The museum shows a video on the history of the prison as well as memorabilia collected throughout its history. One of the most interesting things to me was this backwards clock, said to have been taken from a territory bar. The idea is that patrons of the bar could look in the mirror and still see what time it was. What, time to jump on their horse and ride to Dodge? Time to meet Miss Kitty for dinner? Time to make the noon walk to the OK Corral? How many past drinkers figured it was time to leave?

The prison is depressing in its smallness. Small cells, small views, small ceilings. It must have been hell to be here in the heat of summer. There were six prisoners per cell. As if it wasn’t bad enough for the first seven prisoners to be here, they literally had to build it themselves in 1876. Three thousand and sixty nine, including 29 women, would follow over the next 33 years. There were even 26 successful prison escapes. Many horror stories exist about this prison, but in fact, it was a model for its time, with skilled prison doctors, an inmate garden area, and schooling. Prisoners had free time and used it to make crafts still on display in the museum. Intricate carvings speak of lots of time for attention to detail.

The main deterrent to objectionable behavior was the dark cell. It’s a hole of a room down a small, dark tunnel. There is no light and no ventilation.

Overcrowding caused a new yard and thirteen new cells to be built, but to no avail. The prison closed in September 1909, when it was moved to Florence, AZ. The prison continued to be utilized rather uniquely however. Yuma High School used it for classes from 1910 to 1914. Hobos from the nearby railroad tracks used it for shelter, as did families during the Depression years for free housing. Townspeople used it as a source of free building material. Claudia used it for a unique photo op!

Downtown Yuma 

You have to cut downtown Yuma a little slack. It’s trying. Old derelict buildings vie with colorful new décor trying to woo the snowbird shopping dollar. It’s an area of huge potential but still crying in its baby steps to get there. Coming from Bend, Oregon, whose downtown has attained its zenith, this is an interesting contrast. You can see the potential, which still unfortunately falls far short of the image it hopes to project. Easily the best building in town is the remodeled former post office, now the Gowan building.

<old post office;  

We visit on a Tuesday, which is the day for a farmer’s market/craft show. Miami developers would kill for some of these old buildings—the main unifying splendor being Art Deco details. The whole area oozes the 1930’s; even to its languid streets. Most of the new stores are empty however.

One of our favorite things about Yuma is the Mi Rancho Mexican Restaurant on 4^th Avenue. Fabulous food, in huge servings, with very reasonable prices. Here’s Marc with his favorite order, the Mucho, Macho Burrito. Some things in Yuma have reached their potential….