August 10, 2003 Smoky and hot  

Wild fires have been a constant in Montana this summer almost from the time we arrived. Lately the air is filled with choking smoke which has reduced visibility down to as little as three to four miles. This Sunday’s ride in the park reflected the smoky skies as the East Entrance fire, Yellowstone’s worst since the tragedy of 1988, raged uncontrolled. 

We thought we would visit Norris Geyser Basin but found it fairly crowded and major portions of its looped trails closed off due to higher geo-thermal activity which has flooded them.

Back on the bikes, headed for Mammoth, we stopped to enjoy Roaring Mountain, which isn’t steaming much these draught days and on to the Hoodoos. The Hoodoos, travertine remains of old hot spring terraces which were transported by landslides, sit guarding the road to Mammoth.

For those who may have visited Yellowstone years ago, Mammoth today is a poor imitation of itself. One small area spits mineral laden hot water to form the pools—the rest are ghostly, dry, and chalky, spilling down the hillside, a mere whisper of their former glory. From a distance they look like one large white guano heap, much as you would see a rock island in the ocean for resting and breeding birds. We traveled on to Gardiner, Montana and the park’s fabled North Entrance, the stone work arch Teddy Roosevelt had built.

One of Yellowstone’s most beautiful falls is also along this drive. Gibbon Falls sits on the edge of the huge caldera that was left after one of earth’s most gigantic volcanic blasts and possibly because of this, seems to possess a shimmering quality which is quite enchanting. The flashing iridescence which shows in the photo is actually the way the water appears.

Finally, a loop trail at Artist’s Paint Pots brings us to these fumaroles and pools; more of what Yellowstone is best known for.