September 15, 2004—In Southern Montana
Southern Montana can probably be enjoyed numerous ways, but we always seek outdoor pursuits if possible. Since this is the most scarcely populated area of the state, it’s nice getting out on the dirt back roads to gain that solitary feeling of peace that you get when there’s not another soul in sight. Plus, the scenery is spectacular.
Fall has already arrived, but is subtle in its flavor given the prevalence of evergreens verus deciduous trees.
Improvements to the trailer continue, as Marc ordered and installed a new air hitch on the Travel Supreme. Towing the car seemed to yank and bank on the old one so he hopes this improves the situation. Never forget Newbies, the word RV equates to Money Pit!
Visiting Bannack…A Ghost Town
Bear with us as we visit another old west town; this time without a current population however. About twenty two miles west from the town of Dillon sits Bannack, located along Grasshopper Creek in a mineral filled gulch which flows from the higher rocky mountains looming on two sides. This is now a Montana State Park, preserved in a state of arrested decay and probably one of the best embodiments of pioneer life one can experience in this day and age.
From 1862 until 1890, Bannack was a gold-mining camp, a territorial capital, and one of the most violent places in Montana. It’s easy to imagine its violent past, its brim-filled streets and the noise from the placer mining as you wander at will among the 60 derelict buildings left standing. It started with one man finding gold along what was formerly Willard’s Creek (so named by Lewis and Clark) which of course, in the fashion of the time, inflamed others lust to join the fray. A mining camp flourished and in time became a city and the first Territorial Capitol of Montana.
By 1863 lawlessness in the area was rampant. And one of the worst was the sheriff of Bannack, Henry Plummer and his band, who specialized in preying on the miners. Vigilante justice was swift in coming to Plummer and his gang, when all were hanged in a gallows above the town. The town bar was his special bailiwick.
Bannack had many fine buildings for its day. One of the best preserved is the Hotel Meade, an all brick building with abnormally high ceilings, wide moldings, and an elegant banister staircase. Another well preserved building is the school house, built in 1874. One can almost hear the ghostly children giggle and shout as they go round the merry-go-round in front.
Most of Bannack’s homes are now in sad repair. Occasionally, you do get glimpses of both the hardships and the finer things enjoyed in this frontier town. One home sports a rock fireplace, one a second story, another faded wallpaper and wooden shutters. Most are just sad reminders however, of what little glory they might have once possessed for their owners and inhabitants.
On the far western side of the park lies the place where many of these inhabitants were laid to rest--their final sojourn in Bannack. Many are young; so young that it’s humbling to think about how some people get born into this life and don’t get a chance to be in it for very long at all. As the crumbling ornamentation around the unknown graves decay into dust, you wonder who lies there, and what his or her life in Bannack must have been like 125 years ago when this place was so wild and rough.
